As I started the December segment for my Almost Vintage Holiday theme, I discussed the great Letter from the Editor that Ruth Reichl wrote to introduce the December 2003 edition. She referenced her ten-years-old self and undertaking making a réveillon (French-Canadian Feast) for her family. Even though her  Bûche de Noël resembled Stonehenge, her family congratulated her on the effort. Her editorial essay helps introduce the “Winterlight” spread of a réveillon (156-165) and includes the entire menu for a midnight feast:

• Miniature Tourtières with Spicy Tomato Cranberry Preserves
• Oyster Soup with Frizzled Leaks
• Glazed Chestnuts and Haricots Verts
• Herb-Braised Ham
• Scalloped Butternut Squash
• Buckwheat Crêpe Noodles with Chive Butter
• Maple Walnut Bûche De Noël 
• Lady Apples in Apple Ice Wine Gelée 

Besides the recipes for the feast, there is even a game plan for organizing your time. Of course, there are wine suggestions for each course, too.

I love to make preserves, jams, and jellies, especially during the Christmas season. The recipe for Spicy Tomato Cranberry Preserves (158) is what I call a quick-jam meaning it is not cannable (water-bathed). It’s one that can hang out in your fridge for a bit. I immediately thought this would be a great condiment for goat cheese toasts or on grilled steak. I am sure the paring of this jam with those mini meat pies is delicious as well.

Spicy Tomato Cranberry Preserves

Based on a recipe from Gourmet, December 2003.

Ingredients

• 1 ½ c. chopped red onion
• 1 (14.5 oz) can diced tomatoes
• 1 c. fresh or frozen cranberries coarsely chopped in a food processor
• ⅔ c. sugar
• ⅓ c. apple cider vinegar
• 2 (4” x 1”) strips of fresh orange zest
• 1 (4” x 1”) strip of fresh lemon zest
• ¼ t. dried red pepper flakes
• ⅛ t. sea salt
• ¼ t. freshly ground coarse black pepper

Instructions

1. Bring all ingredients to a boil in a 2-quart heavy nonreactive sauce pan over moderate heat, stirring and breaking up tomatoes. (A potato masher works great for this.)
2. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, stirring frequently, until thick, about 20-25 minutes.
3. Cool preserves, then chill, covered, at least 8 hours so flavors can develop. Preserves can be chilled up to 1 week.

Yield: about 2 cups

I made two batches of this stuff during Thanksgiving week. I threw a few whole cranberries into the last batch I made and I would do that again. We spooned some of this jam over soft goat cheese for an appetizer plate on Thanksgiving. It was great. I have also been using it on grilled cheese—over and over again.

Make this soon! It would make a great gift, too.