Another thing I noticed as I perused my vintage Gourmet magazine (December 2003) was the recipes; they did seem to be everywhere. At least they seemed to be in the first half or more of the magazine (as opposed to my observation of MSL). There were complete recipes on the table of content pages (Eggnog and Figs in Red-Wine Syrup). Readers sent in letters to the editor that contained recipes: Salmon Mousse on Dill Pizzelle and Chicken Paprikas with Noodles. I always loved the “You Asked For It” section. Most of the time these were for recipes from favorite restaurants. In the December mag, the editors granted requests for a Mascarpone Cheesecake (from Syrah in Santa Rosa which closed in 2019) and an Onion and Fennel Bisque from the Blue Heron Inn in B.C. (which, surprise, is also now shuttered).

Even the advertisements were chockful of great sounding recipes. Almost every single food/beverage related ad had a recipe embedded in it.

• SunMaid—Chicken in Sweet and Zest Raisin Sauce
• California Raisins—Warm Piquillo Peppers with Goat Cheese, California Raisins and Moscatel Vinaigrette and Rolled Pork Loin with Raisins and Herbs
• Goya—Seafood Paella a a la Goya
• GE Profile Series—Cranberry-Glazed Apple Dumplings
• Philly Cream Cheese—the basic NY Cheesecake recipe
• Jimmy Dean—Golden Sausage Egg Rolls
• Sylk Cream Liqueur (never heard of it)—Sylky Bread Pudding with Sylk Cream Caramel Sauce
• Stonyfield Farm Yogurt—Hungarian Pork Cutlets

the above list doesn’t even include all the cocktail recipes that were listed in the liquor ads.

Honestly, this list makes me want to do a whole other theme and just make every oneof these recipes.

I found this spiced nut recipe in a Chandon sparkling wine ad and I was also inspired by John Thorne’s “Table Talk” feature extolling the virtues of ending the meal with something savory instead of sweet (“So Long, Sweetheart.” Gourmet, December 2003. pp. 86-89, 206.) More about that article later.

Spiced Nuts

Based on a recipe from a vintage Chandon advertisement.

Ingredients

• 8 oz. nuts (I used walnut halves.)
• 1 t. vegetable (or other mild oil)
• 1 t. sea salt
• 2 t. sugar
• 1/4 t. cayenne pepper
• 1/2 t. freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 t. coriander
• 1/2 t. dry mustard

Instructions

1. Preheat oven to 350 F.
2. Place nuts in a mixing bowl. Drizzle in oil and toss to coat.
3. In a smaller mixing bowl, combine the salt, sugar and spices. Whisk together.
4. Sprinkle sugar/spice mix over the nuts, stirring to coat evenly.
5. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicon pad. Spread the coated nuts in a single layer and place in oven.
6. Bake for 5-7 minutes (or until toasted). Set a timer for every 2 minutes to stir and check for toastiness.
7. Remove from oven and allow nuts to cool completely. These will keep for several days in a sealed container.

Yield: 10-12

The spice combo above was different than any spiced nuts I have made in the past so I was intrigued. The only thing I did differently from the original recipe is decrease the amount of nuts (from the original 1 lb.) because I only had a little over 8 oz. of walnuts, but I kept the other amounts the same so the nuts would be very well coated.

Feel free to dial up the cayenne, too.

As mentioned above, I was inspired to pick this recipe after I read the John Thorne article about savory vs. sweet for meal endings (“So Long, Sweetheart.” Gourmet, Dec. 2003, pp. 86-89, 206). He declares he never has been one to delight in dessert at the end of the meal and always yearned for someone to recognize that savory bites could end the evening.

Who knew that the whisper of melancholy that creeps in at dinner’s end, that sense of inchoate yearning, needed only a plate of anchovy toast, even a bowl of salted nuts, to set things straight? (87)

In the article he references a few authors that amused me. One was was the British cookbook author, Agnes Jekyll, D.B.E. (D.B.E. stands for Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire; I had to look it up.) Thorne was thrilled to find that Lady Jekyll (publishing in 1922) referenced how “savouries” were totally appropriate to serve at the end of a meal. (I don’t know what tickled me most about this reference, probably her name but Thorne also points out Lady Jekyll also includes some antiquated references like what to take for lunch on a winter motoring excursion.) 

In 1974, Robin McDonald (a former secretary of the Travellers Club) collected recipes from private men clubs in Clubland Cooking. They were all about the savory. Thorne does study savories history further and acknowledges it tends to be a British thing. (He also insinuates that it is a male thing, too). 

Thorne has his opinions for sure. One thing that he maintains is that the ending dish (or dishes) of savories need not try to keep up with the sweetness and excess of typical desserts. Here is what he suggests:

• garlic tuiles
• tiny pots of hot cheese pudding
• a bowl of dukka and olive oil with toasted pita
• Scotch woodcock (soft scrambled eggs flavored with anchovy over grilled toast)
• Or, the aforementioned bowl of salted nuts

He ends his article with a recipe for Welsh Rabbit (which I fondly remember from 8th grade home ec class.)

Reading the article twenty-two years after it was written was interesting, too. I do love his use of words but I can see some that would think his writing was a bit high-handed and stilted. Instead I took it all in as a bit of irony and tongue-in-cheekiness.

Not sure what Thorne would think of these spiced nuts. They are a savory treat.

Regardless, maybe you can use this recipe to finish out a meal or scatter a few spiced nuts around a charcuterie board.

(It just dawned on my that I have read John Thorne before! I actually thought I recognized his style. Not British at all! I just went back to reread the post where I reviewed Outlaw Cook and I mention Welsh Rabbit there, too!)

It does seem like I am just continuing on my appetizer theme for my Almost Vintage Holiday and maybe I am. It’s all about holiday ease around here.